Unlike other Home Inspection companies, 360 Home Renovations looks to fully educate our clients on what exactly is actually being inspected on your property.
Before you move into your new home, it is wise to conduct a thorough inspection. One such inspection will be a final walkthrough of your home with the general contractor to look for defects and deficiencies. When you do the inspection, be sure to bring the approved plans if they are available.
1.1 Examine windows for dirt and debris, such as concrete.
1.2 Ensure glass is free from imperfections and damage, such as scratches or bubbles.
1.3 Tracks are clean.
1.4 Latches work properly.
1.5 Screens are installed and free from damage, such as holes.
1.6 Frames are free from damage, such as scratches or buckling.
1.7 Safety glass has been installed in required areas, such as:
a) Glass less than 18” off the floor.
b) Shower and tub surrounds.
c) Glass in doors.
d) Sliding glass doors or French doors.
e) Glass within 24” of a door.
1.1-1.2 – Defects in new windows are not uncommon. Look carefully.
1.7 – Look for seals or stickers in the bottom corner of the glass indicating it is “tempered safety glass.”
2.1 When viewed from the outside, there should be no gaps between the door and closure strip.
2.2 When viewed from the inside, there should be a gap ranging from 1/8” to 3/16” between the door slab and the jamb. From top to bottom, this gap should be relatively consistent.
2.3 Test open and close the door. There should be no sticking or dragging.
2.4 Ensure the door will close fully and latch.
2.5 Once the door is closed, try to rattle the door. The ability to rattle it indicates the door must be adjusted.
2.6 Inspect the door slab and jamb for paint flaws, scratches, dents, and dings.
Exterior Doors Only
2.7 On the top and sides of the door, there is weather stripping.
2.8 The weather-stripping and hinges are free from paint.
2.9 Between the threshold and bottom of the door, there is no gap.
2.10 Confirm the master key works in all exterior deadbolts and handsets.
Bi-fold and Bi-pass Doors
2.11 Door can be slid smoothly along the track.
2.12 There is no gap in the centre of bi-fold doors.
2.13 Doors are hung at the same distance from the track.
2.14 At the end of doors, there are no gaps.
2.1 – A gap no more than 1/16” across the top and along the vertical edges is acceptable. The door will need to be adjusted or replaced if the gap is larger than this.
2.9 – If there is a gap between the threshold and bottom of the exterior door, then the door will need to be adjusted accordingly.
3.0 Paint and Texture
3.1 Inspect paint for runs, blobs, and drips.
3.2 Look carefully at walls and ceilings for missed or thin areas, and mark their location with masking tape (these flaws will be easier to find later).
3.1-3.2 – Check the paint and its texture at various times throughout the day using both natural and artificial light. The texture must show a smooth application.
4.0 Moulding and Trim
4.1 Verify joints are smooth.
4.2 Between the casing and wall or jamb, check for gaps. Use masking tape to mark flaws.
4.3 Inspect window and door surround casings for smooth joints. More specifically, check the casing jamb, jamb, and closure strip.
4.4 Look for nail holes and paint flaws in casing, baseboards, and mouldings.
4.5 On natural wood trim materials check the finish for consistency.
4.6 Ensure hand and stair rails are firmly attached.
4.1-4.6 – If they joints have been painted, they should be invisible.
5.0 Floor and Floor Coverings
5.1 As you walk through your house, listen for squeaks in the floor.
5.2 Look for stains, wrinkles, and bumps in the carpet.
5.3 Check vinyl floors for marks and flaws. Also, the seams should be invisible.
5.4 There are no gaps between planks of hardwood or laminate flooring.
5.5 Floor finishes are free from runs and drips; therefore, smooth to the touch.
5.6 With ceramic tiles, they are laid flat, and grout lines have an evenly sized width.
5.7 Check for straightness by sighting down grout lines.
5.8 Laminate floors should be smooth without any extra glue on the surface.
5.3-5.8 – Just like examining paint and texture, floors should be examined in various lighting conditions at several times throughout the day.
6.0 Cabinets and Countertops
6.1 Look for scratches and dings on the countertop.
6.2 Touch the seams. They should be smooth.
6.3 There must be caulking between the backsplash and wall, as well as between the countertop and backsplash.
6.4 Inspect the cabinet finish carefully. There should be no flaws, such as runs, drips, or missed areas.
6.5 Open all doors and drawers. They should open smoothly without catching or sticking.
6.6 Close all doors and drawers. They should be without gaps and flush on all sides.
6.7 Cabinet face frames should be flush.
6.8 Make sure the shelves and their hardware are present. Look inside all cabinets.
6.9 For each door and drawer, there should be bumper pads attached.
6.10 Look inside each cabinet. They should be free from dust and debris.
6.0 – Check doors and drawers for proper alignment. Also, it’s very easy for a careless worker to ding and dent surfaces with their tools, so inspect cabinets and countertops carefully.
7.1 Test run all appliances, such as: stove, range hood, refrigerator, and dishwasher. Test as many functions as possible.
7.2 Examine appliance surfaces for scratches, dings, and dents.
7.3 Ensure appliances are firmly mounted in place. This includes: the stove, range hood, and dishwasher.
7.4 Each appliance should come with an instruction manual and a warranty card.
7.5 Double check appliance make or model against the specification sheet information.
8.1 Test each fixture and appliance for water temperature, pressure, and volume.
8.2 Test each fixture for leaks, drips, and proper operation.
8.3 Ensure the water heater is working correctly and is set at the right temperature. (Usually 50-60°C)
8.4 Inspect showers, tubs, toilets, sinks for caulk.
8.5 Check all fixtures for surface defects such as: cracks, chips, and discolouration.
8.6 All fixtures must be securely mounted.
8.7 Double check fixtures against the specification sheet.
8.5 – Because tubs are installed during the rough plumbing phase, they are more likely to get damaged. So, look carefully.
9.1 Test all lights, fans, and both interior and exterior outlets.
9.2 Test the doorbell.
9.3 Look at your house plans, and check that all outlets are in their correct location.
9.4 Look for cracks on electrical covers.
9.5 Make sure the breaker panel has all breakers labelled and that all circuits are on.
9.6 Ensure the main shut off is accessible.
9.0 – Purchase a GFCI tester to use in kitchen, bathroom, garage, and exterior outlets.
10.1 Test cooling and heating systems by using the thermostat.
10.2 Look inside the furnace for a filter.
10.3 Pick up the heat registers. The ductwork should be free from debris.
10.4 If the duct joints are reachable, make sure they are sealed with duct tape.
10.1 – When set on “cooling” mode, go outside to ensure the compressor unit is turned on.
11.1 Exterior locks work using the master key.
11.2 Deadbolts and handsets securely latch.
11.3 Ensure toilet roll holders, towel bars, mirrors, etc. are secure and level.
11.4 The house number is both level and visible.
11.5 Closet hardware and closet rods are mounted securely.
12.1 Examine all around the garage door for gaps.
12.2 Turn the lights off to check the gasket for light leaks on the bottom of the garage door.
12.3 Look outside of the garage door opening for the sealing strip.
12.4 Walk a distance away from the house and test the remote control.
12.5 Ensure the hardwire switch works correctly.
12.6 Stay inside the garage and close the door. Watch and listen to the door for sticking and squeaking.
12.7 Ensure the manual garage release latch works properly. When you pull the release handle, the door should release from the tracks and close manually.
12.8 The regular door is fire rated.
12.9 Inspect the garage floor for settlement and cracks.
12.10 While the door is closing, test the infrared beam by crossing the beam.
12.11 The regular door to the garage works properly.
12.1 – Light should be sealed out by the rubber gasket at the bottom of the garage door. If you see light, it’s possible that the concrete is not level or the seal may need to be adjusted.
12.8 – The regular door is the one that connects the house to the garage. Look at the edge of the garage door opposite to the handset. If the door is fire rated, you will see a label with a statement like “fire rated 20 minutes”.
12.10 –6” above the floor, use a stick to break the infrared beam while the door is closing. If the safety mechanism works correctly, your door should return to the opened position.
12.11 – Open the door 1/3” and let go. This door should be self-closing and can latch by itself.
13.1 Examine kitchen and bathroom cabinetry for dust and dirt.
13.2 Basement and garage floors should be clean and broom swept.
13.3 Window frames and tracks need to be cleaned inside and out.
13.4 All flooring needs to be vacuumed and cleaned.
13.5 There should be no mud or concrete stuck to the houses’ siding and foundation.
14.1 Examine stairs, inside and out, for proper run and rise.
14.2 Ensure walls, inside and out, are flat and smooth by viewing them from an acute angle.
14.3 Ensure floors and ceilings are flat and level.
14.4 Ensure straightness in the barge rafters and fascia.
14.5 Examine baluster width and rail height in all hand and stair rails, inside and out.
14.6 Examine exterior rails and landings.
14.7 Get an insulation compliance certificate from your contractor.
14.1 – Each stair can have a rise no more than 8” and a minimum tread of at least 9”. Also, there should be no more than 3/8” difference between the rise of each stair.
14.5 – There are specific rules regarding the measurements for handrails and balusters. The handrail should be approximately 34-38” high from the tread nosing. Minimally, the stair rail height should be 36” high. When the distance to the ground is greater than 30”, balusters should be spaced so it is impossible for a 4” sphere to pass between them.
14.6 – Outside, handrails are essential for stairs with at least three risers. When the landing is higher than 30”, stair rails are required.
15.0 Soffit, Fascia, and Gutter
15.1 Look for dents and dings on fascia and soffit covers.
15.2 Examine soffit for sagging.
15.3 The soffit and fascia must be tightly assembled. Look for cracks and gaps.
15.4 Gutters are installed correctly.
15.5 Downspouts and gutters must be attached securely.
15.6 Test the gutter system by spraying water onto the roof. Observe for leaks.
16.1 Examine the roof for missing shingles. Pay extra attention to the ridges and hips.
16.2 Check for a continuous drip edge that overlaps at the joints.
16.3 Look at the roof for shiners.
16.4 Get the roof warranty from the builder.
16.3 – The roof will not last as long if there are exposed shiners or nails. Use a pair of binoculars to look at the roof if you cannot get on it.
17.0 Concrete and Drainage
17.1 Look for cracks and water settlement in the concrete.
17.2 Look for marks and oil stains on the concrete.
17.3 Examine concrete for low spots. They may collect water in the future.
17.4 Examine the excavated areas for settlement.
17.5 Water needs to run away from the driveway and foundation. Make sure the ground slopes.
17.6 Water needs to drain onto the street or a storm drain system.
17.7 Concrete surfaces must be swept and washed.
17.1 – Although cracking in concrete is somewhat normal, it’s not normal to occur in the first few months after it is poured. If you see any cracks, this is an indication of poor sub-base preparation.
17.4 – This requires looking where the backfill was placed around the foundation. Also, check the basement and garage floors.
17.6 – It is not acceptable for water to drain onto an adjacent property. It must drain into a common public area.
18.0 Siding and Masonry
18.1 Outside surfaces should be flat.
18.2 Examine interlocking siding and stucco. There should be no bumps or bubbles.
18.3 Look for defects by sighting down rows of horizontal siding at an acute angle. There should be no bumps or humps.
18.4 No gaps are present on tightly assembled soffit and siding.
18.5 Stucco has a flat, consistent texture.
18.6 Stucco surfaces are free from damage such as cracks and chips.
18.7 Look at painted surfaces for flaws. This includes doors, jambs, and moulding.
18.8 Bricks are free of mortar and dirt.
18.9 Trim is lapped, so water cannot penetrate under the siding.
18.1 –If not nailed properly, vinyl siding will pop and bubble out.
18.9 – Give special attention to areas surrounding windows and doors. Where wood siding, stucco, or brick is used, caulking can stop water from leaking in.
19.0 Miscellaneous Exterior
19.1 To test exterior faucets, turn them on.
19.2 Examine the window glass and frames from the outside for flaws.
19.3 Construction debris has been cleaned up from the property.